Pubblicato: 06 Ottobre 2015
Milan fashion week staged, as usual, all the trendy newcomers that we will see coming in the windows of boutiques or on the streets, worn by the forefront fashionistas. As we said, the main Spring-Summer 2016 proposals from fashion Maisons are marked by ecleptism. As a consequence, among long skirts and gauzy, studded vests with crystals, 80'style colorful foseaux, and jackets by monk cut the ability of designers to interprete the desires of modern women meanwhile being faithfull to their stylistic values definitely reigned. Then, the big names playing on unusual mix of matter, transparencies and prints effect to rework the classic elegance of style according to revised rules, while the emerging focus on the originality of unequivocal estrus in order to better express genius and entrepreneurial spirit. Among the talents veterans Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez from Au Jour Le Jour and the beginner Daizy Shely stand out. The first involves an iconic detergent, Dash, and make the star of a hilarious fashion. Spots of color come out rampant on glittering dresses, overalls, bomber jackets and even boots, and become the glamor found to launch a new leitmotif to claim "Au Jour Le Jour gets dirty, Dash cleans up". Prints, the inevitable pop touch which enshrined the duo to the world of fashion, have the shape of cups which pours coffee creating curious camouflage effects, then broken eggs, spilled ketchup, syringes spraying blood to be covered with bandages. Furthermore, fabrics are refined and varied, from denim to organza silk, from panama cotton to different types of cracks and the perforated anglaise. Embroideries are meticulous and mostly made of beads and pallettes both micro and macro size. In addittion, accessories define the mood of experimental and technical collection due to tube cuissard and sling-back sandals combined with the clutch and jewelry stain shaped, thin disco-queen belts in metal, shopping bag and clutch that represent all the most cult icons. The result is summarized in energetic and contemporary looks designed for women who do not give sparkling femininity with a touch of glam rock. Daizy Sheily has inspired by snapshots of beach resorts and expanses of flowers photographed from above to tell about her eccentric colorful fashion through an entirely unique perspective. Short and flared dresses from 80s appeal alternate with voluminous and feathered skirts, as the coat with inserts of marabou. Iridescent pallettes light tuxedo composed by short men jackets and shorts. The man's shirt has been reworked in sexy fanciful pieces which see it paired with a maxi skirt or turned into a transparent dress with flounces. Tartan prints and floral illustrations mix in graphics mash-up from the artistic mood on an elegant strapless dress. Then, variations in color and volume describe a collection young and by a maverick sensuality. On the contrary, 2016 SS Daniela Gregis collection that is dedicated to nature and art and revives country in its creations. Consequently the challenge view in Dazy gives way to a relaxed style and a bit bohemian matching jackets and bell-shaped skirts 60s inspired, mesh fine mesh and overalls, shirts wrinkled and factor's hat. Colors are intense and dominated by the primaries in the total look version or strokes. Prints offer draws and polka dots, while the fabrics recall the paintings of rustic clothes of worker in the countryside. Even the bags are crude fiber, straw mostly.
Furthermore, the fashion week was then a prestigious stage for young students. Some of them who come from the most renowned fashion school had the opportunity to parade in front of an audience of experts presenting their work on a real catwalk. As evidence of the increasingly close association between the Italian savoir fair and international scene, Marangoni Institute organized a sensational show during the Vogue Fashion Night Out on September 22, the opening night of the Milan fashion shows. The kermessé featured models made by 16 of the top school's designers based in Milan, London, Paris and Shanghai. The school, which provides lectures in fashion since 1935, has trained over the years many of the most famous names in design and styling, and decided to celebrate 80 years of success with an event dedicated to young people and to the strength of creativeness. In fact, the theme "Fashion Warrior" was an invitation to the new generation of creative people to fight for their future because they know that growing their talent with passion and effort this will lead them to the triumph.
Among the graduates who both attended the school of Milan, two have stood for performance and elegance. The first one is Huiyang LU, named "The Best Womenswear 80th Warrior" thanks to a tailoring approach and a judicious mix of fabrics avant gard. The second, Marco Fusato, has been noted for the grace and skill of building architecture and little mannish silhouette with a contemporary style and welcomes you like. After the show, the 300 guests were able to appreciate the students' projects related to fashion and interior design at the exhibition installed for the celebration. Moreover, another promising sign of the international fashion system comes from Marangoni: Shelly Jin. Chinese by birth, she is living Milan. The designer early left Hong Kong where she graduated from the Polytechnic to the capital of Italian fashion where she attended two master. Visionary and esthete, Shelly composes and decomposes the shapes to create patterns from the attitude chic and a strong contemporary art inspired by Cubism and an unmistakable touch of the orient. The fine garments has been made with natural fabrics in order to respect the environment around us.
Remember, finally, that the catwalk of 22 September was only the first of the events organized by Marangoni to celebrate the 80 history of the institute. In fact, in October the agenda is full of events, most notably the introduction of the exclusive Luxury Coffee Table Book, published by RCS, a symbol of the art school most famous in Italian fashion. The meeting will trace the highlights of the academic process developed so far with testimonials from professionals, teachers, and students. Texts are from Cristina Morozzi, director of education of Marangoni School of Design (born in January 2014) and accompanied by the photography of Aldo Fallai.
Main picture ph credit; Daizy Shely via Camera della Moda
Au Jour Le Jour
Ph credit: Camera della Moda
Ph credit: Camera della Moda
Hui Yang Lu
Ph credit: Istituto Marangoni
Ph credit: Marco Fusato IG