Pubblicato: 15 Febbraio 2016
From the glam rock of Roberto Cavalli to the urban-hipster of Philipp Plein, autumn-winter 2017 menswear treading the catwalks of the first two days of Milan fashion week with a newfound awareness. The style is more and more eclectic, each brand is strong in its individuality, researched and outlined, and the mix of gender gives way to the male vanity that is synonymous with virility and intrigues and seduces without daring too much. Peter Dundas for Roberto Cavalli let the dance begins and without giving up the hallmarks of the brand such as animal footprint and a cine-star mood, plays with wools and velvets to create outerwear ranging from classic blazers and capes, embroidered with baroque floral motifs, to fur. The colors are dusty, black, gray and camel, the principal. Flashes of light rock are given thanks to the powder blue and white.
Corneliani takes us back to 40s, when elegance was synonymous with functionality. Broad shoulders, fedora to "Bogey", coats and jackets are super lightweight, deconstructed in shapes, woth visible stitching to dampen an otherwise excessive rigor. Knitwear is the protagonist in large textured version and fabrics ranging from cashmere to nylon pass by the astrakhan. Brown is the main color, from tobacco to all the other nuances. The crochet embroideries are meticulous and handmade. This is also for the three-dimensional ornaments that decorate the fabrics of the wardrobe signed by Ermenegildo Zegna for which Stefano Pilati brings in an extreme finesse runway which speaks of tailoring and refinement declined in cashmere overcoats, cottons, and fur, to accompany bags and leather backpacks, and the inevitable derby (studded or fringed). Refinement and precision are also the cornerstones of Jil Sander that manages vertically and diagonally the silhouettes to reprocess volumes. Cuts are clear, the mood edgy-noir. Do not miss any overcoat, the long coat, the parka, the multi-purpose bomber. The leather inserts coupled contribute to trace the sporty allure that has always distinguished the brand. And if the sporty and refined elegance are a bit 'the main ingredients of this new men's fashion, Versace interprets them with an inevitable '80 touch. Chameleon and terribly glamorous, Donatella provides large coats to be combined with straight pants and nails laminated leather leggings of iridescent. The cuts are decided, the volumes contrasting. The varsity jackets and the complete perfectly follow the fit of the body but are worn with gauzy gown. Sneakers ankle and backpacking are the kit. More transgressive and urban print are the collections A/W 2017 signed by Les Hommes and Philipp Plein. The top leaders again are the jackets, leather biker-style bomber and the urban look. Les Hommes reinvents the pants according to dynamic technical solutions and combines them with shirts and coats from tribal graphics which makes it street by adding splashes of studs. Philipp Plein stage on the catwalk the next generation of skaters, hipster spirit and dark style. Here too are the jackets, beautiful to wear with t-shirt inspired by the super heroes and complete closure shawl that make the difference. Finally, there are hats, gloves, bandanas and clearly the biker boots. Lucio Vanotti, the talent hosted by Giorgio Armani in via Bergognone theater in Milan, proporse mens that are less greedy and more introspective, almost suspended between the ascetic monks, samurai and martial. Relaxed and casual is instead the Marni men wearing blouses with lengths over and geometric necks, blazers from romantic prints and coats with fur inserts and colored fluids. The colors, iconic stretch of the brand, are repeated in touches, from black to burgundy, mustard, camel and blue.
The journey in the endless fashion universes continues after the third day of Milan fashion week with a dip in the rock atmosphere of the '80s. John Richmond, the first collection designed entirely by Moschillo Spa, leads on the catwalk a glamorous style with a zen aftertaste. Jackets in colorful patterns on green and purple shades are combined with straight pants by the punk attitude. The restyling of the pinstripes passes through the leather inserts. The check is classic and compact. Colorful drawings from three-dimensional graphic elements animate jackets, from bomber to leather nails, and are also reflected on t-shirt and ripped jeans or toggle on the elegant trousers. The graphics are also inevitably present in Missoni that de-structure the classic zigzag multicolor into rows and because of wool flare-shirts, to be worn under jackets with rounded edges, suede jackets and sports parka. The hats are coordinated with the sweaters. The boots underline the globetrotting character that has always been synonymous with the brand. The journey, our inner nature, the discovery of karma and the spirit of the most peaceful abodes, it is then also the starting point for Kean Etro, inspired by the film "State of Nature", created for her eponymous label a romantic collection and reflective but powerful impact. The richness mixed classicism stands in the precious details like graceful leaves on check-patterned paintings, golden embroidery and the bright edges fortuny style sleeves of jackets and dress shirts. The natural atmosphere and energetic echoes in cashmere and fine wool monhair. The typical motives of men's fashion men, such as tartan, paintings, and rows marry new silhouette draw jackets with slightly worn cuts and sweaters by deliberately frayed edges (frame or scissors). The volumes are free and contrast coats, slim line oversized trousers with low crotch. The paisley, stylistic code of the brand, is unabashedly present, even on tweed plaid shirts to effect. The color palette comes in various shades of earth, the browns, the reds, purple, khaki and blue. The coolest accessory is the monk thick-soled, worn with colored socks. The latter, however, dual-fiber, are the trendiest shoes for Calvin Klein that true to its sporty-chic attitude delights to redevelop the overlapping volumes in slim-fit trousers oversize coats, such as compact maxi parka hood, and chemises knee-length. Do not miss the denim and t-shirts, to be worn under the suit jackets. What's new? The cummerbund to bring to life new claim of the modern dandy, also seen on another runway, Daks. The creative Director Philip Scuffi, choose the tuxedo as the top boss and plays him with an accent blatantly british reworking in outfits from the tissues and researched processes. The finishes are precious: the lapels of the jackets, the edges of the shirts, the decorations of the shawls and moccasins, everything is treated in detail. The colors, typically dark, except for the orange, are illuminated by golden flashes. The tailored suits and the tartan fabric by English elegance immediately refer to one of the fashion icons of all time, Vivienne Westwood. The designer staged an irreverent humoristic collection with pinstripes to prune wedges on the edge of the female and a material mix that fixed in multicromia patchwork. Salvatore Ferragamo, offers a hanging wardrobe between east and west from the educated rigor, nuanced, playing with graphic overlays and volumes stretched to find the balance between the traditional sophisticated and contemporary inevitable. The colors are those identifiers of the brand: red, ocher, black and white. Prada designs a very balanced collection and matching coats from net shapes and composed a voluminous shirts with original drawings. Christophe Chemin artist designed the under jacket prints specifically for this collection confirming the arty oriented temperament of the brand. The leather belts are made special by the addition of pendants and chains hats navy donate a naif touch that never fails in the catwalks by Miuccia.
Gucci tries in the depths of the archives the new men's ready to wear size of the house and chooses the imagination as a leitmotif of the collection. The mood is fun and libertine. Entertaining Snoopy appears on t-shirts. The prints, fresh and oriental-inspired populate coats, overcoats and kimono cut bluson. The pants are flared and turned up on the ankle, the chameleon-like colors with a shaded in hues ranging from burgundy and peach pink to dark green and powder blue to yellow. The details in fur and accessories celebrate the the 70s and anarchic spirit intended by the art director. Sunglasses and bags are large and square, the sneakers and moccasins are vintage. No shortage of loafers in fur, now the brand's cult.
Giorgio Armani does not disappoint and offers a comfortable and elegant collection with versatile clothes and casual attitude. The coats are long to the foot, the silhouette of the jackets are relaxed. The patchwork blouses soft nappa and fur give a lovable movement that accompanies the warm cashmere, wool and alpaca. The pants with pleats, wide and structured, are distinctive and innovative piece. They are also present in the Emporio collection where you wear them with coats and blouses from reflective details in alternation with outfits in denim, fundamental material to interpret this second line, technical, suspended between metropolitan sportswear and classic tailoring.
Moncler Gamme Bleu is betting everything on camuflage that reworks in solid colors such as dark red, blue, green and gray, and presents it in total look from the martial character, with ski masks that leave nothing to the eye.
Western Set for Dolce&Gabbana and Antonio Marras. The first pay homage to the golden age of Italian cinema and faithful to the Sicilian traditions bring cowboy walkway digital natives who entertain the parterre clicking selfies with i-pad. On the other hand, Marras sets the west in another beautiful Italian island: Sardinia. Here, in Sinis, where he holds the childhood memories, modern cowboy wear shirts and dress coats decorated with embroidery and check cashmere reasons. The hardiness of overalls, aprons, and tunics, is dampened by kaleidoscopic prints by romantic allure. Tinkling masks and woolen hats or fur give importance to the face. Prints, tartan, and paintings are protagonists of channels, which leads to the catwalk outfits from purely classical silhouette with overcoats and from slightly over 50 years forms and pants straight flush leg. Fendi, equally classy, focuses on pijamas and nightgowns that becomes enveloping and fine outerwear from luxury-comfy style. Super glam are the sneakers with trekking details and slip on fur.
Military-glam by tailoring for Ermanno Scervino's man who points on knitwear and customize according to the social trends of the moment with the written #ES. The rows and the fur details are the supporting wire of the collection which impinges on materials and geometry of the silhouettes, prefers jackets, coats and pants by the slim fit. The suits are dark with jais decorations, the denim smeared, jackets in Prince of Wales. glamorous attitude turns the final of the walkway with glitter falls. The accessories? Male tote bag with a over capacity and sneaker lace, for uninhibited and dynamic men, always traveling around the world.
Marcelo Burlon marchia his street generation with an imprint all tribal, who never lost the link with the south america. Whose symbolism shows, clearly, on multicolor bomber, the fringed ponchos, jackets and shoes in the maxi sciarponi. The total look in denim are accompanied with backpacks and sneakers ankle.
Dirk Bikkembergs, parades sexy biker with long coats and sleeveless leather lapels, hipster adherents like a second skin, nails that leave your abs in sight, and covering futuristic glasses. The material mix builds forms according to different levels so that the technical fabrics combine with gebardine, wool, cashmere and angora for a tailored collection of hardcore fitting.
Corneliani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Marni
Les Hommes, Lucio Vanotti, Marni
Philipp Plein, Roberto Cavalli, Versace
Missoni, Etro, Richmond
Vivienne Westwood, Calvin Klein, Daks
Gucci, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo
Canali, Emporio Armani, Ermanno Scervino
Dolce&Gabbana, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Marras
Les Hommes, Giorgio Armani, Dirk Bikkembergs
Fendi, Marcelo Burlon
Ph Credits: http://www.cameramoda.it/it/