Pubblicato: 28 Marzo 2016
Abstract, geometric, opulent look, graphic, the style of women's catwalks for the next cold season speaks a complex and irrational language which incorporates the symbols and figures of metropolitan reality and reworks the kneading in a classic melange from a renewed flavor. The influences of the decorative style and art deco'are strong and evident in the forms of optical patterns, zig zag or squares, and in the aerodynamic volumes. In addittion, the attention to detail, more than meticulous, results in artisanal pride trappings that distinguishes matchies look characterized by tactile and conceptual contrasts. Male and female, light and heavy, day and evening, casual and posh, converge creating a tailored clothes from gentle but perceptible luxurious. The new classic thus passes through the use of rich fabrics, velvets, brocades and rolled. Knitwear and the variety of coats are rediscovered as weell as the accuracy of the embroideries, the intensity of colors and the pictorial beauty of fantasies. Each garment alive along with its complement and pays tribute to the femininity in its most romantic and libertine sense. Moreover, the natural evolution of 70s eclecticism of last winter could only be the typical cosmopolitan dynamism of modern globetrotters, gypsy and chic in a single woman. So let's go over the great autumn-winter 2016-2017 collections trend by trend.
Decorativism. Matisse said that "the composition is the art of arranging in a decorative way the various elements through which painting has to express its feelings." In the same terms fashion feeds on heterogeneous stimuli to create statues of fabric that reveal in all their originality the aesthetic modernism of the ongoing reform.
Hence, overlapping of velvets, brocades, prints, patterns, leathers and embroidery come to life in mix and match look which give little and surprised much. First of all Prada, that although the changes over the years, it is able to remain strong in its directives and makes eclecticism as a statement. The Bell 'Epoque relives in the corsets cinched at the waist, in puffed sleeves, skirts below the knee, the ankle boots. The clothes, soft and fluid, are long and flared, or printed silk shorts. They are worn with heavy and thick diamond socks under coats in patterned tartan or gold brocade. The wedge sandals match sock without fear. Theis trend conquers the row even at Gucci, which double the success of previous seasons and scored with the last line AI 2016-2017. The long and delicate chiffon dresses have become a cult brand. They are distinguished by embroidery and transparency. Light feathers close the mermaid skirts and skin bodies in printed patchwork make iconic long skirts, curvy and colorful. The tunic dresses are screwed, with or without corsage, made of silk with zen prints and fur edges. There are also coats, from brocade patterns and colored lapels. Super trendy the bomber jacket to wear over t-shirt and shorts in coordinated, or flared skirts. Moreover there are plenty of smoking and broadband by geometric lines. Volumes open and close over sleeves and bottom of coats and trousers for Sportmax that plays with graphic elements in check by the tone on tone shades, contrasting stripes and embroidered quilt-free lines to achieve a balanced collection of marked '60 inspiration and sporty attitude. Mood relaxed and libertine for Etro that goes back in time to the 70s grunge atmosphere of London and brings in an extreme walkway dynamism, breaking the grills of the occasions of use and overcomes the barriers of formal/ informal, day/ night, sophistication/ simplicity. The paisly, iconic motif of the brand, revitalizes the leather biker along with tigers, dragons and flowers tattoo effect. The coats are matched with long coats worn over chiffon dresses, uniform jackets to combine with soft velvet pants, military parka lined with luxurious brocades. Stella Jean is faithful to her must, the flared skirts, solid brilliant color, ethnic influences. However, she places these codes in a way to recast a decorative, intellectual, multicultural style. Bathrobes pea coat with ethnic patterns should be wore on pants inspired by the Masai culture, while the color block capes are adorned with tapestry motifs and closed with a brooch. Then, swarovski flowers for N°21 that uses textural overlays and volumes, combines palm trees prints in denim shirts, tank tops or patterned tulle and plaid coats. The sweaters are over, the graceful dresses in crepe de chine, for a nice shabby chic style.
Machining, overlays, embroidery and folk instances: Marras collections are eccentric and versatile, and cannot resist the charm of the adventure. Saharan flowing, maxi blouses, gypsy skirts and maxi wool collar underline the stray and rebellious inclination of I'm Isola Marras woman that is ready by the time of any goal with scarves on their heads and boots on the feet. More poetic and transcendental the woman of Antonio Marras who steals the past to give the present and apply embroidery on upholstery liners interspersed with leather, velvet or tulle inserts. In addittion, he also applies flowers embroideries on jackets from the military cut and shawls and dresses from researched and sumptuous style. Black predominates. Accessories are kept and detailed, with graphic cuts and textural mix that are original and design oriented. The reference to the uniform rigor is also for Dsquared2. The fashion twins moderate the formalism of the typical lines of Victorian era or samurai robes using fur, jewelry, and maxi size heels, distinctly modern and flashy. The pants, filled with multi-purpose pockets, are worn with lace blouses decorated with ethnic details in leather that are matched with colorful sandals and detailed warrior jackets.
Neoclassicism found. In the season of contradictions, extreme contrasts make winter fashion even more attractive and interesting. Despite the imprint of the 'art deco' it is addictive and predominant, it meets the essential simplicity of the neo classical tailoring. The elegance is granted to the most refined vanity and luxury, subtle forms, it passes through the precious embroidery and applying decorations such micro beads, hyper feminine lace, braid. That it is for Ermanno Scervino where perfect lines and couture cuts take shape in dress by the underlying royalty. The embroidered petticoats become leaders with intriguing transparencies to be worn under coats and pea jackets. At least, is not the year of the nude look? Yes it is, as a consequence pieces dedicated to lingerie play a key role in the daily wear outfits composition. Feminine and ladylike styll is finally back with the skirt just above the knee and Prince of Wales tweed. Sobriety and sophistication even at Chicca Lualdi who tells about women with a luxurious simplicity, using the contrast of the black&white, plein colors like red on small graphic and repetitive patterns (squares), edgy and two-dimensional volumes, tunics of slacks, socks knitted exposed to prune with suede sandals from structured heel, even on the pants. Noir passion for Giorgio Armani who chooses the black velvet as main material and declines it in the blouses, boleros, jackets and trousers, worn piece by piece in talleur or broken tuxedo, for a velvet cuture from unexpected versatility. Moreover there are stunning precious embroidery, art nouveau bloom on gala long dress, rich bustier dresses with jet crystals. On the other side, Emporio repeats the mood of the urban-couture for man with the woman proposing the cult leaders such as pants with piences in futuristic version and accompanied woolen cardigan with velvet sleeves. Echoes of dada inspiration are evident in the geometry of triangles and circles, pink or green, are applied everywhere. By decorativism of Bahuaus to Richmond along all the paths of art and architecture, the brand brings to the stage a surprisingly mild parade from the wardrobe, with short colorful dresses, long and laminates. It doesn't miss the glamor of the 80s and the rock attitude that lives in leather and nails in the predominance of black. However the effrontery leaves room for more vain femininity and "charming".
Only one statement: color. Winter 2017 it's full of color, patterned or shaded, the important thing is that they are vivid and sharp from pop echoes and glam glimpse. The primary colors red, blue, black and white reign supreme, followed by the most various shades of iris, pink, orange, purple, turquoise, khaki, teal and peacock. At Leit Motiv, instinct and creative possibilities are blended in maxi colored roses, in the tresses of branches, leaves and animals, protagonists of fables representing the allegory of life. The deer, mascot of the brand, moves into a magical forest of embroidery, prints and details that are part of long and filmy dresses whose materials are valuable and sought after. Salvatore Ferragamo plays with lines that breaks and combines in a zig zag pattern of various sizes and color combo. The drawing of a dry fit clothing with bodies that wrap shapes and pencil skirts or pleated austere by bon ton silhouette. Garments are enriched with ruffles or large buttons. Versace also indulges the rainbow fever and offers unusual combinations of pastel colors and graphic elements in fluorescent patchwork, baroque fantasies magazines to the computer, and color block from the geometrical diagram. The strong and sensual soul that has always distinguished the brand materializes in leather skirts, slits pronounced and games of framed asymmetrical lines by lightning brilliant to wear open. The colorful language of Marni finds expression in a calibrated collection and relaxed with clean lines. Pathos and style take shape in outfits made by polite asymetric caps of classic blouses, tops should be connected on the back with long ribbons, stirrup leggings to wear with heels and jewelry sculpture for ultimate display that tells the philosophy of the brand in an intimate and staff way.
Madmoiselle si vous plait. Princesses we born and we become again. Fashion 2016-2017 is a return to romanticism that was to express all the grace and femininity which is innate in being a woman. This is for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana who affectionate and nostalgic pay homage to the queens of fairy tales that have accompanied our childhood and always imagine a magical catwalk with dresses with clingy bodice, puffed sleeves and a tailored wealth painstakingly. The pants are straight and short to be worn with amphibians boots of uniform style military jackets whose rigor is toned down from colorful designs, playful, fairytale, as the mirror of Snow White, the stars, the balloons. Prints maxi flowers bloom in soft hues of egg coats worn over clothes and Hourglass midi skirts or corolla. The lines are worn in total look complete with coat while micro mirrors illuminate lumiére bags from the Arabian Nights. Blumarine by the contrast of the fur on silk and chiffon to create dresses and filmy fluids chemises, in shades of pink and blue pastel with mink edges, combined with stoles, then accessories with fur inserts and Russian princess hat. Full pajamas are in pale green silk and have precious embroideries and details in velvet or lace of the same tone. Lozenges of flowers, leaves and birds are a bit everywhere, from cashmere coats to shirts and the hips clothes. Great return of knitting with Les Copains inspired by the 40s divas the brand brings to the stage modern Marlene Dietrich by ethereal aura and Parisian attitude who wears wraparound oversize sweaters with corolla sleeves, skirt hyper light and pleated in chiffon. The micro pull have big neckline that contrast generous open on the back. Cardigans and maxi braids accompany voluminous trousers with wide leg. Parka jacket are in satin, the quilted coat padded mesh. Male/ female, day/ night, chic/ casual meet in the game of contrasts, where mannish silhouette hide bodices, plissé skirts which show bare legs and lace transparencies belle de jour style. The contemporary woman, romantic and unconventional finds in this line its most sensual expression. The accessories, from swarovski earrings to the fringed handbags and the lace or satin bows, confirm the modern and globetrotter attitude that animates the whole collection.
Ruffles, what a passion. Will that effect fluttering that smacks of frivolity, will be the movement of the veil on the veil that makes everything lighter, the charm of ruffles is always irresistible. This year more than ever, the designers could not resist to wrap silhouette with sinuous waves of fabric and volume, and the opulence of brocades, velvets and jacuard, embellished with crystals, embroidery and so on and so forth is played down by ruffles that curl and climb on the clothes, skirts, shirts, vests. Ruffles by Christian Pellizzari are spectacular and retro. He uses those by contrasting on coats, on soft sweaters and camisoles, to match with the fur bomber, on chiffon dresses and denim. Giambattista Valli, for Giamba, prefers punk long tulle petticoat to match with grunge sweatshirts. Rossella Jardini, innate elegance and timeless irony, for her first own line opts for ruffles on the collar by schoolgirl on the shoes and the pea jackets to match with straight and mannish cut pants. Scognamiglio remains on the classic and looking at the Belle Epoque drawing fluid dresses made even sweeter due to cascades of ruffles that extend in length. The dresses were worn with unexpected stilettos in satin or vinyl. Byblos is inspired by the bucolic atmosphere and makes them contemporary in a digital 2.1way through 3D floral effects that brighten outerwear, colorful dresses and bright graphics, long skirt to match with stoles and tricot finely crafted mesh.
The accessories. Stocks, both tights Parisian wool or sponge, they are back in trend and to wear with sandals. The shoes are in dark red, green, blue, and brown velvet. They have floral and paisley embroidery, reminiscent of Russia and the magic of the Kremlin; others have geometric and square heel, and highest plateau for sandals, low shot with tassels on loafers (Fratelli Rossetti). Furthermore, let's continue with opulence and elaborate details for daytime slippers (Mario Valentino), the ankle boots, and the cuissard round toe to wear above the knee (Brian Atwood). Then, the influence of Art Deco is strong in colors, patchwork leathers (Bertoni 1949, Paula Cademartori), inlays, with fringes (Sara Battaglia), with feathers and ruffles (Oscar Tiye), with swarovsky (Gedebe) and rhinestones (Roberto Botticelli, Reneé Caovilla), colored beads pixelation (Les Petites Joueurs). Ph. cameradellamoda.it
(Fb Official picture)
(Fb Official picture)